The art of sewing is first a respect for the fabric, a love for the materials used in fashioning a garment to be worn, or a drapery to be hung. When shopping for fabric, I was instructed to experience the tactile feel of the material. The coarseness of Shetland wool, the softness of cashmere, the smooth glossiness of silk. Textiles are comprised of various elements of nature, Flax for Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool and a dizzying combination of those elements. Synthetics either 100% polyimide or in combination with natural fibers is a whole other genus.
An art lover will tell you they purchased a painting because “it spoke to them.” In that same way, fabric, whether a Scots wool plaid or an exotic Emilio Pucci silk print, speaks to the artist in a tailor or a seamstress. The artistry of creating a beautiful, well-fitted garment encompasses many disciplines. Consideration of the body type is critical. We’re not just talking body size or weight here. Humans come in many shapes and sizes and those two things dictate the appropriate style, and, in many cases, the appropriate fabric. Any woman of any size can look stylish and beautiful in a well fitted garment suited to her body type and lifestyle. Of course, you must also pay attention to color, line, and cut, the obvious characteristics of elegant timeless styling.
Jesse and Lex Wedding Co.
Bride in custom-made gown
Extensive information is exchanged between a client and her dressmaker. A dress is not simply a dress. A ball gown is a dress just as a tennis dress is a dress. Even that declaration is not specific enough. In journalism, to get the full story the writer will cover the questions of Who, What, When, Where and Why. Similarly; designers, dressmakers and tailors ask those questions as well as some others. “How are you going to wear this piece of clothing?” “How do you want to feel in this piece?” Some things are specific to an event like a wedding dress or a Senior prom gown. In that case determining “How do you want to feel?” or “What aspect of yourself do you want to exhibit?” is most important. I once asked a client at the final fitting of her party dress, “How do you feel?” What I wanted to know was how the fit felt and whether she was comfortable in the dress. Her answer surprised me, she said “I feel beautiful.” Those words have magic in them for both the person wearing the garment and the dressmaker. Our goal as designers, dressmakers, or tailors is not only to make a garment that is beautiful but to make you feel beautiful wearing the garment.
Once a dressmaker or designer has ascertained the type of garment required, i.e. a dress, a coat or a pair of slacks, etc., the real work begins. Full body measurements are taken and recorded in a client profile. A dressmaker will ask if a specific color is required or if a client generally has a favorite color or fabric in mind. A client may bring a photograph from a fashion magazine or a download of something from an online “runway” show. These items are helpful in defining the client’s vision. There will be a lot of discussion at this time between the client and the designer/dressmaker to fully realize all the aspects of the finished garment. Part of that discussion will be budget considerations, fabric selection, plus all decorative elements of the design. That is not to say there won’t be changes and refinements to the original work. Experience has taught that is almost always the case.
At this stage a designer/dressmaker will make a tissue pattern for the garment, taking account of the clients’ measurements and any special fitting requirements. The preliminary tissue pattern is fitted to the client in a general way to determine the basic shape, length, and whether the pattern approximates the desired style and fit. Any changes to the tissue pattern, such as a less full skirt or a longer sleeve length, will be transferred to a muslin “toile.” For the “toile,” basic pattern pieces are sewn together and draped on the body to judge the fit as well as the overall look of the garment. This is where it’s determined whether the desired style has been achieved and the fit is flattering to the body. If so, we will proceed with cutting the fashion fabric and begin assembly. There will be a least three additional fittings, even for a “simple” dress. More fittings are required for more intricate designs, such as a wedding gown or a tailored suit. Though this may seem like a lengthy process, the results are worthy of the effort. Of special note is time itself. It is an essential “tool” of the dedicated designer/dressmaker of beautiful garments.
Jesse and Lex Wedding Co.
Custom Gown details
I am not a slave to fashion as defined by the latest season’s runway parade. I believe that you can be fashionable by adapting trends to suit your body, your budget, your personal sense of style and your lifestyle. All these aspects should be considered when purchasing an item of clothing. After all, it is the beautiful “frame” that surrounds the picture of you.
If I can help you bring a design dream of yours to life, please contact me at my studio, Dorothy by Design, by calling 912.576.2939 or by email dotstokes@live.com.
