Wild and Free

Photos by Annaliese Kondo

Fashion is a reflection of the times. Post-war decadence produced the sassy, flashy flapper dresses of the 1920s. Free love and the rejection of tradition in the 1970s gave us psychedelic colors and flowing fabrics. When women flocked to the office in the 1980s, power suits and tailored styles helped them convey their professionalism. Now in 2021, the aesthetics we’re leaning into focus more on comfort, functionality, and fun. We see old trends being recycled in new ways and value expression of personal style over replicating cookie-cutter fashion plates. We’re throwing off constraints that were imposed in traditional workplace or other public settings and embracing clothes that make us feel free, both physically and spiritually. This is what it means to be wild and free.

Retro Rewind

Whether you consider it “retro style” or “vintage inspired,” looks from past decades are returning in big ways! One of the most popular of these might be the boho (or bohemian) look. Well, to be honest, although boho style tends to morph over time, it’s one of those aesthetics we never truly abandon. Maxi dresses, floral prints, and embroidery are all steadfast holdovers from styles once associated with the ’60s and ’70s and you can find them in abundance in our local stores today. Beyond the Woodstock inspired looks there are new trends with boho roots too, like exaggerated ruffles on collars and sleeves and elevated styles of fringe. The modern take on prairie dresses, puff sleeves, eyelets and lace, Western details, and oversized collars are all hot right now. But, remember, if you’re truly embracing bohemian style it’s not about following a trend, they key is to express yourself—not to grab a designer piece because it’s labeled “boho chic.”

Boho Babe or Hippie Chick? 

So what does bohemian mean anyway? The first mention of the Bohemians dates back to the end of the 18th century, during the time of the French Revolution. The term initially referred to the nomadic gypsies who originated from the Balkan area of Eastern Europe, in a region called Bohemia. However, artists and other creatives who had lost their wealthy patrons due to the social and economic climate and fallen into poverty were soon lumped into the “bohemian” description. This was primarily because of their clothing. Artists began to wear used and old clothing out of necessity. Then, as the economic climate stabilized, they began expressing their creative side through their clothing, often in eccentric and highly artistic ways. As such, they were likened to gypsies. Thus the term “bohemian’ became synonymous with a counterculture associated with creativity, artistic expression, and disregard to social constructs and mainstream aesthetics. Fashions labeled as bohemian represent this lifestyle and ideology: an alternative to the traditional mode of dressing, paired with an equally alternative, more liberated lifestyle, and a social stance against societal constraints and materialism.

Similarly, in the US, the hippie movement of the 1960s and 70s stood against conventionality. New clothing styles like ethnic dresses, embroidered and crocheted pieces, mixed prints, volume, fringe and flared silhouettes became popular. The hippies rejected everything from mainstream values and established institutions to materialism and social constructs. This was apparent in their fashion choices, which went against the streamlined, polished, and chic silhouettes of the previous decade.

Bohemian style is closely related to hippie fashion. Natural fabrics, retro patterns, earthy neutrals and warm shades merge with 70s style accents and a flair for statement accessories. Although closely associated with the hippie counterculture fashions of the 1960s and 70s, bohemian fashion today is part of mainstream culture. The wide variety of boho clothing and accessories currently available make the style an actual phenomenon, one that follows the lines of effortless, relaxed fashion, with loose-fitted apparel, casual accessories, and an overall artistic, creative mishmash of elements. Bohemian fashion is laid back, unconventional and highly expressive, often considered romantic. Like hippies, bohemians are free-spirited wanderers who refuse to dress in order to conform.

Like “la vie Bohème” in Paris of the 1800s, the hippies of Haight-Asbury in the mid-1960s generated a historically significant dress reform movement. It’s hard to imagine that the outrageous and anomalous style revolution that occurred could have been born anywhere other than California, or more specifically, San Francisco, following the British Invasion and the American’s eager embrace of fashion, arts, and culture from London. The hippies' protest against capitalist society led them to eschew any traditional strictures or etiquettes about clothes. Clothes and colors gleefully clashed. Old recycled clothes were considered proudly worn pedigree and ecologically conscious. They embraced Native American and folk dress and lifestyle. Fashion moved away from mini-skirts with the adoption of long peasant skirts and unconstructed flowing silhouettes and tent shapes. In keeping with their sense of commonality with the workers of the world, they also adopted the utilitarian movement that came to be known as "anti-fashion." This was seen in rugged and basic attire with little decorative appeal, such as blue jeans worn with T-shirts and work shirts. 

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It’s All Rosy

It’s All Rosy

Rose-colored glasses won’t protect your eyes, but Millican Eye Center at 1626 Frederica Road can. They provide comprehensive eye care for your whole family and have a wide selection of designer sunglasses, frames and lenses.

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Flower Power!

Flower Power!

Stunning daisy earrings with 14KY center masterfully crafted by Golden Isles Bracelet Co. These earrings will be your new favorites.

Vibrant Vibe 

Of course, we can’t talk about retro hippie fashion without mentioning tie dye. The term “tie-dye,” which describes the process of folding, twisting, or crumpling a textile before tying it with string or rubber bands and then applying dyes, entered the mainstream American lexicon in the 1960s. While the dying process had been used for decades prior to this, there was a surge in its popularity during the hippie era because it was a simple and inexpensive method of creative self-expression.

In 1964, Don Price, a marketer at Rit, saw an opportunity to introduce the dye brand to some creative types he’d discovered in Greenwich Village. Rit followed Price’s advice to replace its boxed powders with squeezable liquid dyes, better for creating multicolor designs. But Price’s real marketing genius paid off when he learned about Woodstock and funded artists to make several hundred tie dyed T-shirts to be sold at the festival. When music icons like Janis Joplin and Jerry Garcia also started wearing tie-dye, the trend quickly spread among America’s youth and Rit became the official hippie dye. The psychedelic swirls came to symbolize peace and rebellion and tie dye became one of the most iconic looks of the time period. As we’ve seen a resurgence of DIY projects and designers turning to ways to customize looks without reliance on embellishments like zippers, buttons, tie dye has seen a recent resurgence on the runways and at fashion and lifestyle retailers.

It’s gotta be da shoes! 

The main focus of this year’s shoe style trends is comfort. Not terribly surprising given that many people are still working from home. Also, as with other elements of fashion, it’s going to be hard to convince us to give up the comfort we’ve created for ourselves for the past year. But smart designers have proven you don’t have to sacrifice style to be comfortable. Flat sandals were prominently on display in most spring collections. Metallics, animal prints, interesting textiles, and fun colors are popular. Slides and mules are selling well, and vendors of footwear in the Golden Isles tell us that they can’t keep big chunky platforms in stock they’re so popular here. So it looks like that indicates we will want to wear heels again, but mainly in the form of stable platforms.

In Spike Lee’s 1986 film She’s Gotta Have It, Lee played Mars Blackmon, a "Brooklyn-loving" fan of the New York Knicks, sports, and Air Jordans, the shoes Nike created in 1984 for 6 time NBA Champion Michael Jordan. In the late 1980s and early 1990s Nike’s ad campaign for Air Jordans featured Lee alongside Jordan in commercials with Mars using the catch phrase, "It's gotta be da shoes." From their retail debut in 1985 Air Jordans started shaping sneaker culture as we knew it and the “It’s gotta be da shoes” campaign has been credited as a landmark in the evolution of sneakers into massively profitable fashion items. The Jordan Mars shoe line is named for the Mars Blackmon character, and Lee's son, Jackson Lewis Lee, was the designer of the Jordan Mars 270. Air Jordans remain the most popular sneaker of today, with hundreds of different versions produced in the past decade.

Romance Returns

Romance and nostalgia are major themes this season. When times seem gloomy and uncertain, we tend to look for happiness in old familiar places or indulge in a little romantic escapism. You can see this reflected in the runaway popularity of Bridgerton, current reboots of popular TV sitcoms we grew up with, and virtual reunion specials for some of our favorite movies. How does it translate to fashion? 

When it comes to style, romance and femininity go hand in hand, with soft colors or whimsical prints, girlish ruffles, flowing fabrics, ample volume, and flowery motifs in dreamy dresses, skirts, and tops. Instead of layers and layers of ruffles, however, this season’s look is more minimalist and you’ll see femininity reflected in sweetheart necklines, puffed sleeves, corseting and smocking details, and dainty jewelry and oversized bangles. Soft knits and gauzy light fabrics promise to caress your skin. Breezy eyelet and lace finishing is everywhere!

Nostalgia for the 90s appears in retro tees, loose shirts and hoodies reinterpreted in 2021 style with softer, more feminine appeal. The emphasis now will be on the fabric, with a preference for delicate and refined textiles, and softer shades, bringing chic styles into play and edging out some of the sportswear inspiration that has been in vogue. Baggy jeans are back too! Say goodbye to skinny jeans and embrace denim with wider fits, sustainable vintage washes, and a softer touch.

Mix and match these trends for modern appeal. Pair a voluminous blouse or knit top with sweetheart neckline with wide leg jeans or top a ruffled skirt with a soft, heathered vintage looking band t-shirt. Add leather belts to feminine ensembles. Wear contemporary chunky sandals with flowing prairie dresses and skirts. Above all, throw out the rules and wear whatever makes you feel comfortable and confident.

Embrace Your Animal Spirit

Like a leopard never changes its spots, animal print is another fashion trend that never truly goes out of style. With such an array of patterns and ways to wear it, how could it? It’s a perfect way to glam up jeans or add interest to monochromatic ensembles with patterned shoes and accessories. We’ve definitely seen the trend explode over the past few years, with leopard spots adorning jackets, shoes, belts, t-shirts and home décor pieces too. 2020 and 2021 runway shows (even when virtual) have demonstrated that wildlife-inspired patterns are still here in full force.

Beyond the classic leopard spots, zebra patterns, sleek tiger stripes, snakeskin prints, and even tropical bird plumage have been appearing from designers. And they’re coming at us in every color from monochromatic to metallic. While zebra stripes took top billing in 2019, and last year, the bizarre popularity of Tiger King inspired everyone to unleash their ferocious feline side with tiger stripes and cheetah and leopard spots, Forbes says that in 2021, the hottest animal print trend is the western-inspired cowhide print. Generally natural in color, with brown or black spots, it’s a perfect print to pair with anything from subdued neutrals to bright neons and it’s showing up on everything from jeans to jackets, and hoop earrings to handbags. We’re also seeing more snakeskin prints, frequently merged with other animal patterns for a truly wild statement.

Striking!  

Although the snakeskin trend is everywhere, authentic snakeskin is rare. Boots and handbags made from real snakeskin run thousands of dollars. Even faux snakeskin boots can go as high as $1500, making the trend an expensive one. Because snakeskin items are rare they are considered exotic luxury items. The rarity of true snakeskin items is due to the fact that the size of the snake makes it difficult to construct full-size goods, also their skin is delicate, and with age the scales tend to raise. The delicate nature of the skin and the level of workmanship that goes into assembling this delicate skin are responsible for the high price tag. The most common types of snakeskin used in creating products  are python and ayers. Of the two, ayers is less expensive and not as delicate. Most expensive snake bags are made in python. Faux snakeskin products are typically made of cow-hide leather or goatskin, and embossed to look like the scales of  a snake. This process is finished with a coating on the leather, which serves as a protectant. This makes the faux option more durable and technically a better  buy for your money.

Not All Black & White

One of the most-asked questions about zebras is whether they’re white with black stripes or black within white stripes. Zebras are generally thought to have white coats with black (and sometimes brown) stripes. That's because on most zebras the stripes end on their belly and toward the inside of the legs, and the rest is all white. However, some zebras are born with genetic variations that make them all black with white stripes, or mostly dark with the striped pattern on just part of their coats. Underneath their hair zebras have black skin. So it all depends on how you look at it!

While not exactly camouflage, a zebra’s stripes still help to protect them from predators. When zebras are grouped together, their combined stripes make it hard for a hungry lion to pick out any one zebra to chase. Like fingerprints, zebra stripes are unique to each individual, and researchers have used zebras’ stripe patterns to identify individual zebras. Different zebra species (there are three) have stripes of different widths. Interestingly, the farther south you travel on the African plains, the farther apart the zebra’s stripes are!

Rosettes & Royalty

Some fun facts about leopard print: 

1. What you think is leopard print, isn’t always leopard print. Cheetah, ocelot, and jaguar spots are often mistakenly identified as leopard. Leopard spots are called “rosettes,” and are thick broken circles of black around a gold center. Cheetahs have spots without rosettes. Ocelots have elongated rosettes. Jaguars have spots in the middle of their rosettes. 

2. While humans wear leopard spots to stand out, they are camouflage for the leopard. The spots are an evolutionary adaptation that help leopards blend in to their natural environments when they hunt.

3. Animal print popularity has regal roots. Zulu chieftains often wear leopard capes and crowns. Henry VIII forbade commoners from wearing leopard. Animal print became all the rage in 18th century France after King Louis XIV imported animals from Africa for his menagerie and decorated Versailles with exotic skins. After Marie Antoinette, the infamous bride of King Louis XVI, disguised herself in an attempt to escape revolutionaries, she was depicted in a caricature as a leopard—one who couldn’t change her spots. Not long after, some of Napoleon’s officers used leopard skin to decorate their helmets and saddles.

4. With his debut collection in 1947, Christian Dior made leopard print a sensation in haute couture when he presented a leopard sheath dress. The inspiration came from his muse, Mitzah Bricard, who was known for wearing a leopard-print scarf as a wrist-tie. He introduced the print saying, “If you are fair and sweet, don’t wear it.”

5. Leopard print appeared on lingerie in the 1950s, when the Vanity Fair brand launched the style in a tantalizing marketing campaign that lasted more than two decades. It was a staple in the sexy catalogs put out by Frederick’s of Hollywood. The print hit the swimsuit scene around the same time, and it’s popularity surged through the 1960s, especially after the introduction of the bikini.

Tickled Pink

As we slowly come out of our cocoons, fashion buyers are sending the message that clothing should be joyful and fun. So it’s appropriate that pink should be the color that finds us tickled pink! From the baby pink of the 1950s to the neon pink of the 1980s to the more recent market saturation with millennial pink, the color certainly has surges of popularity. We hear from our local fashion vendors that pink items are flying off the racks, while similar pieces in other colors are slower to sell. There’s a wide palette of the rosy color out there right now. 

According to fashion insiders, bubblegum and hot pink are leading the way in colors, even ahead of sky blues and chili pepper reds. While the softer, millennial pink tones that we began embracing in 2016 and have not yet let go are still relevant and will enjoy plenty of airtime in seasons to come, it's brighter, punchier, highlighter-worthy hues that are currently getting the spotlight. Think Barbie Dream House and give your wardrobe a candy pink sugar high.

Color Me Pink 

Ironically, some iconic pink items didn’t start life that color or they obtained their hue unintentionally. Perhaps the most obvious case of this is the flamingo. Although their vibrant color is their most-famous quality, the pink of the flamingo’s feathers is surprisingly not a hereditary trait. When the birds are  born, they are a dull gray. The bright pink coloring they develop comes from beta carotene, a red-orange pigment found within the shrimp, algae, and larvae that make up their diet. Consequently, the colors of flamingos’ feathers differ on the basis of their location and the food sources they have available. Some flamingos are darker or brighter shades of pink, while others have a more orange or red tint. There are even some that are pure white. The same is true of the roseate spoonbills we see here in the Golden Isles.

And how about bubble gum? It was sheer chance that made it pink. In 1928, Walter Diemer, an employee of the Fleer Chewing Gum Company first developed an acceptable bubble gum while experimenting with new gum recipes. One recipe he tried turned out less sticky than regular chewing gum and stretched more easily, making it perfect for blowing bubbles. As the gum was a grey color, he added dye to it to make it more appealing. Why pink? Simply because it was the color Fleer had the most of at the time. Diemer’s gum became highly successful and was marketed as “Dubble Bubble” because of its stretchy texture. It was the dominant brand of bubble gum until Bazooka entered the market following WWII. 

The iconic pink Cadillac that Elvis famously gave to his mother in 1955 actually started out blue with a black roof. Elvis purchased the new blue 1955 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 60 to replace a pink Cadillac head purchased the year before and used for touring with the Blue Moon Boys. He only had the car for three months before it caught fire. When he covered "Baby Let's Play House,” which became his first hit, he changed the lyric “You may get religion” to “You may have a pink Cadillac” as a nod to his touring vehicle. He maintained his fondness for the pink Cadillac and decided to have the new car painted pink as well. His neighbor from Lamar Street, Art, was entrusted with the task and promised a custom paint job. Art called the color he designed specially for the job “Elvis Rose.” After an accident that required repairs and some reupholstering, the black roof was painted white. That “Elvis Rose” pink Cadillac remains on permanent display in the auto museum at Graceland.

Ancient Textile, Modern Trend 

Hooray for linen! Once considered such a luxury that it was used by Egyptians as currency, this lightweight, cool sustainable fabric has been identified as a key fashion trend for 2021. With ethical fashion designers and more traditional designer names on the catwalk embracing its versatility and durability, linen is finally getting a modern moment in the sun. Including being used at fashion houses like Fendi and Dior, according to Alexandra Van Houtte, founder of fashion search engine Tagwalk, linen is seeing a 102% increase in use in 2021 Spring and Summer collections. Industry insiders report that more and more labels are loving linen and using it more. According to Van Houtte, 64% of brands, including Dior, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton, used linen extensively for the first time. More than a quarter of those were luxury brands, including the aforementioned, plus others like Stella McCartney and Maison Margiela. Among the major fashion houses (Prada, Acne, Miu Miu), 16.1 percent of their collections contain linen. Approximately half of all designers showcased at least one linen look in their collection. All in all, reports indicate that linen is growing enormously in popularity, both with luxury brands and the other fashion houses.

The versatility of linen is also being demonstrated. No longer limited to romantic and bohemian styles, this season linen played on current trends such as minimalist, outspoken color, workwear, and androgynous styles. It was combined with satin, wool, and mohair by designers like John Galliano of Maison Margiela. Van Houtte says of the variety of designs, "Although linen has a strong presence of Bohemian/Nomadic and extremely feminine romantic looks (stitching, lace and linen, long dresses by Alberta Ferretti and Dior, delicate embroidery, feminine midi dresses and wide pants by Fendi), tailoring also has its big day coupled with the success story of the season: oversized pants often worn with a blazer for a complete look."

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FLAX Fashion

FLAX Fashion

Cool, comfortable, and casual. Indigo & Cotton has a fantastic selection of linen apparel by FLAX (seen here), Cut Loose, and Shannon Passero.

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Fabric Jewels by Ficklesticks

Fabric Jewels by Ficklesticks

Utilizing interesting or unexpected accessories like fabric jewelry, detailed belts, and printed scarves is a perfect way to add depth to a simple linen ensemble. Necklaces and other creations by Ficklesticks feature rolled fabric “jewels” and can be found locally at Indigo & Cotton.

What makes this trend so exciting? The fact that linen is a much more sustainable fabric than cotton, even organic cotton. Linen is made using fibers from the flax plant. Cultivated in just about every country in the world, the flax plant has been used to make fiber for more than 6,000 years. Flax is a regenerative crop that enriches the soil and also uses significantly less water than cotton to grow. To extract the fibers, the plants are either cut or hand-pulled from the ground. The seeds are then removed by a process called “winnowing” or “ripping,” followed by “retting,”which removes the plant stock from the fibers. Once the fibers are separated to collect the longest pieces, they are spun into yarn and eventually woven into fabric. 

As a textile, linen is two to three times stronger than cotton and dries at a much faster rate. Linen’s porous nature gives it natural heat and moisture-wicking properties that make it a good conductor of warmth and a popular fabric to use for summer clothing and bedding. Thanks to its temperature-regulating properties, however, it can be worn comfortably all year round. The natural fibers hold dye colors better than some other materials, making it available in virtually every possible color. Because linen is naturally antibacterial it was a popular choice for bandages for centuries, and this also means you don’t need to wash it as often. Although the fact that linen fibers are much longer lasting than cotton makes it more expensive to produce, it’s worth the extra cost, because it will last much longer in your wardrobe. There are some additional ecological benefits too. Since linen is made from natural fibers, there’s no plastic in the material, meaning no microplastics will be washed into our precious oceans and rivers when you wash it. Most flax is grown in northern Europe, with France, Belgium and The Netherlands accounting for 85% of world production, so this cuts down the air miles for the European fashion industry. In addition to these environmental benefits, "linen is accessible to everyone,” says Van Houtte, “It is the material that everyone can afford.”

Function & Flow

Spring/summer 2021 fashion meets us at the junction of Tired of Sweatpants & Leggings, Not Ready to Give Up Comfort, and Wanting to Feel Pretty Again. The line between activewear and athleisure blurred as some of us traded the gym for home workouts and others began new fitness routines or turned to outdoor sports like golf, tennis, and even pickleball, to ease pandemic stress and keep moving. Soft hoodies and sweatpants were like security blankets and we didn’t particularly care about style when craving comfort in our own homes. We’re shaking that off now and we want our clothes to make that transition with us. 

According to the 2021 Pinterest Predicts report, comfortable clothing is poised to take on a new kind of leading role in our wardrobes as part of an on-the-brink-of-trending aesthetic they dubbed “athflow”—a word that illustrates the origin of the trend and where it’s headed. This next phase of loungewear is a product of the athleisure movement that shifts the focus to a more refined emphasis on styling by way of slick fabrics, cascading silhouettes, and coordinated sets. Since we're not quite done with comfortable pieces, they are now elevated with more sophisticated elements or accessories. Simply stated, it’s a more polished take on ultra-casual, loose apparel. The athflow aesthetic helps us transition from couch apparel to looks we’re happy to show off in public although we’re still not yet ready to take the deep dive back into pre-pandemic lifestyle attire.

Another key takeaway from the past year as it relates to fashion is a decline in demand for “fast fashion.” Textile Today estimated that 65% of consumers are reducing apparel spending. As such, when consumers do choose to spend, they want durable, versatile, and functional products. There’s a demand for our apparel and accessories to do double-duty. We want looks that are appropriate for both work and play, outfits we can wear comfortably for tee time and for TV time too. We want things with pockets! We adore apparel and accessories that are easy to stash, like packable jackets and crushable hats by Wallaroo found at St. Simons Drug Co. We want functional items like activewear that offers sun protection and cooling properties and all-weather jackets and footwear. Even pieces influenced by military uniforms, like cargo pants (See?! Pockets!), bomber jackets, and tactical/utility vests are getting some attention.

Versatility is as important as utility when consumers are looking to get the most bang for their buck. Pieces that can transition from casual to dressy are always in style. Tunics that can be worn as tops, dresses, or beach cover-ups are everywhere! Reversible pieces are a la mode as well, from neoprene and leather bags and totes at Shackelford to jackets and dresses like that precious pink AnaClare reversible shown earlier. Activewear separates and swimsuits are following this trend too. Also popular are shoes, jewelry, and accessories with interchangeable elements.

The Clara Williams jewelry collection at Planters Exchange is a mind-boggling exercise in interchangeability. From casual to formal, subtle to statement, the possible combinations are endless and the pieces from which to choose are exquisite. 

Similarly, consumers are more willing to spend if they feel that they’re doing more than just stocking their wardrobe. Support for slow fashion brands that are dedicated to fair trade, ethical and sustainable practices continues to grow. We’re seeing more brands making environmentally conscious choices in materials and processes, like using recycled materials from textiles to plastics. While products from some of these brands may be more expensive because they use higher quality products and pay their farmers and workers a living wage, the benefit of playing a role in protecting people and the planet is no small thing. Of course, doing your own part to recycle apparel by consignment shopping is another option. You’d be surprised by how many on trend nearly new and never worn items that still have tags on them you can find at Mixed Nuts Boutique & Consignment! 

No matter what your personal style, whether you follow current fashion cues or aspire to create your own, go wild with the freedom to express yourself! Spring/Summer 2021 Trend:

Be You!

Thank You!

Thank you once again to our models, Ayla, Jade, Jennifer, Lindsey, and Sara, for placing their trust in us and taking the time out of their busy schedules to participate in the photo shoot. We think you’re all rock stars! Our eternal gratitude to Annaliese Kondo for her skill behind the lens, ability to put her subjects at ease, and her unflappable sense of humor. Last but not least, thank you to the Cassina Garden Club for the use of the tabby cabins and beautifully maintained grounds at Gascoigne Bluff as our staging area and picturesque backdrop for the photos.